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Animal
ingredients
Animal extracts are always used in minute concentrations
because of their overpowering odor. When they are diluted
to the right proportion, they give a glorious effect.
They give the scent a richness and warmth that only
an animal note can give. They are chemically very close
to our own sexual aromas. Animal extracts are an essential
part of many commercial fragrances. Most animal notes
today are synthetically produced to decrease cost and
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Ambergris
is found in oily gray lumps primarily in the Indian
Ocean. There has been much speculation as to the origin
of this material. It is found in the ocean in one to
seventy pound lumps. The lumps have strong odor that
is very unpleasant in its raw state. It must be dissolved
in alcohol. After it is processed, the fragrance is
very persistent. It was used in scented gloves because
the odor would last several years. Today synthetic ambergris
is primarily used in replacement of genuine ambergris.
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Castoreum
is a secretion from the preputial follicles of both
male and female castor beavers. It has a strong, disagreeable
odor until it is considerably diluted. It then becomes
highly fragrant. It is an excellent fixative and gives
perfumes a spicy or oriental note. It is very commonly
used in men's fragrances due to the sultry, leathery,
smoky note. It is also used in oriental women's fragrances.
Synthetic castoreums are now available, and can be as
good as the real thing. |
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Civet
Civet is one of the most important animal materials
used for perfume. It is taken from a pouch under the
tails of male and female civet cats. Civet has a very
strong smell, but is diluted and used in minute quantities.
The scent is similar to musk, but has a more smoky,
sweaty aroma. It is an excellent fixative, and used
in many top-quality perfumes today. Civet is available
in artificial substitutes. |
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Musk
Musk is perhaps the most powerful of all perfume fragrances,
and the most expensive. Musk comes from the male musk
deer. It is extracted from the deer in the form of grains.
Musk has been a key constituent in very many perfumes
since its discovery. It is currently found in 35% of
all men's perfumes and fragrances. It is a very good
fixative, and is exceptionally long lasting. There are
many synthetic musks, and musk is one of the most important
ingredients in perfumes. Musk in its natural or synthetic
form can be found in 90% of all fine fragrances.
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